Closer to Comfort

Day One: Fresh seafood & craft cocktails

My husband Daniel and I arrive at Litchfield Beach after an easy drive and are delighted to find thoughtful touches throughout our vacation rental—brochures with information about the area, chocolate truffles, and a friendly note from the owners welcoming us. After unpacking, I walk out to the porch and take in our beachfront view of the Atlantic. It stirs nostalgia deep inside me, since my family vacationed in Litchfield when I was growing up. My mother even kept a travel diary, so we could look back on our memories together. Lost in reverie, I hardly notice when Daniel puts his hand on my shoulder and suggests a walk on the beach. I see families walking along the shore and sunbathing, but it’s far from crowded. In fact, it’s exactly as I remember it. 

After settling in, we made the short 10-minute drive to the Murrells Inlet MarshWalk. With an abundance of dining options to choose from, we decide to explore the half-mile boardwalk in both directions before making our choice. Naturally, the MarshWalk is perfect for people-watching. I see couples holding hands and smiling children, and I know they’re enjoying themselves just as much as we are.

We decide on The Claw House for dinner. I love oysters, and Daniel loves craft beer, so with a full raw bar and more than 90 craft brews on tap, it seems the perfect place for us. 

Presented with so many mouth-watering options, I can’t decide between the tuna ceviche, a dozen oysters on the half shell or the lobster cocktail. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so spoiled when Daniel says, “We’re on vacation; order all of it.” He’s enjoying a craft brew called Yee-Hazy, an obvious good choice as we let the vacation vibes take us over and leave the real world behind for a few days. I smile at him, and order away.

After a divine lunch of some of the freshest seafood around, we venture back to Litchfield to Bi-Lo for groceries and snacks for the rest of our stay. We love eating out, but for this trip we planned to do more home-cooking and laid-back exploring. Before making it through the parking lot, Daniel spots Lowcountry Bites across the way. Nirvana! We’ve just discovered a wonderful new addition to the Hammock Coast – its very own charcuterie café. We are in heaven! We chat with owner Tati. She and her husband, Joseph, have only recently opened the café after a long time working out of their home, and this place is fantastic. We grab a massive charcuterie board that will feed us for days while enjoying the beach. Meat, cheeses, fruit – what could be better while lounging by the Atlantic Ocean?

When we get back to our vacation rental, Daniel and I are primed for cocktail hour. We take our drinks outside to watch the tide roll in. (And, of course, we break into the charcuterie board—there’ll be plenty leftover for tomorrow’s long beach day, but we couldn’t resist sampling it with our drinks.)

We decide it’s supper time and my mind is on my mother’s shrimp and grits recipe. Luckily, we had thought ahead and headed up to Seven Seas Seafood in Murrells Inlet for some fresh-off-the-boat shrimp! The recipe only takes 30 minutes, but you’d never know because it’s so wonderfully rich, with plenty of bacon, butter and cheese. It’s an indulgence and southern comfort in a bowl.

Shrimp and Grits

Ingredients

• 2 ½ cups chicken stock/broth divided
• 2 cups whole milk
• 4 tablespoons butter divided
• 3/4 cup stone-ground grits
• 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese shredded
• 4 strips bacon
• 1 lb. jumbo shrimp peeled and deveined
• kosher salt to taste
• black pepper to taste
• thinly sliced green onions for garnish (optional)

Instructions

• Bring 2 cups of the chicken broth, the milk, 3 tablespoons of the butter, and a pinch of salt to a gentle boil in a medium-sized pot. Add the grits and whisk together. Cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until grits are soft, and creamy, whisking every 5 minutes or so.
• Meanwhile, cook the 4 bacon strips until crispy. Remove from pan, chop into small pieces once cool.
• Drain all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon grease from the skillet.
• Rinse the shrimp with cold water and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper. Cook in the bacon grease until only just cooked- about 2 minutes per side.
• Add the remaining tablespoon of butter and 1/2 cup of chicken broth to the shrimp and stir until melted and broth is heated.
• When grits are finished cooking, remove from heat and stir in the cheese until melted.
• Serve the shrimp mixture over grits, making sure to spoon some of the pan liquid over the grits. Serve immediately.

Day Two: Sun, sand & serenity

Today is our beach day. I’m up early enough to hit the beach at sunrise and get some yoga time in! A pink sphere of sunshine rises over the water, while fresh air fills my lungs. It’s amazing how thankful I am for mornings like this.

Following breakfast, we hit the sand and pick our spot on the open beach. Seaside Chairs and Umbrellas set everything up for us—two chairs, a table and an umbrella wide enough to keep us cool and protected. I bring a copy of the latest book by my favorite South Carolina author—a perfect beach read for what feels like the perfect beach day. We lounge, stroll, talk, and laugh, until we are sun-quenched and hungry.

We have dinner at Pawleys Island Tavern, locally known as The PIT. The fun and casual atmosphere is a perfect finish to our day on the beach. Famous for their pizza, we opt to dive into their House Special—an all-in-one combination of their Meat Lovers’ and The Veggie pizza. It was delicious, and we’re stuffed, but somehow, we manage to share an order of onion rings. Amazing. 

Day Three: Surrounded by art & nature

After sleeping in—who could resist, with that pillow-top mattress and those sheets?—Daniel and I take our time waking up and enjoy the cool morning breeze on the porch. It’s such a treat, we barely speak while we nibble our toasted bagels, sip coffee and take-in the postcard-worthy view. It’s going to be a beautiful day.

After breakfast we head to Brookgreen Gardens in Murrells Inlet! It’s incredible to have a place like this in South Carolina. It’s one of the best in the country to see sculptures—there are more than 2,000—not to mention the gorgeous gardens. I love walking through Live Oak Allée—rows of 250-year-old oak trees that line a historic garden path. We decide to enjoy our packed light lunch in the Garden’s picnic area before continuing to the Brenda W. Rosen Carolina Terrace Garden. Bursting with roses, the scent alone, reminds me of my childhood visits.

Next, we head to Huntington Beach State Park, which is just north and across Ocean Highway from Brookgreen. Daniel remembers walking along the causeway when he was a kid and always seeing lots of wildlife—this trip was no different. A popular birding spot, we gawked at the variety around us. The beach here is unbelievably serene. We stroll along the beach to the jetty, just about a half mile, watching boats drift by in the inlet. I’m in heaven. 

After reminiscing about another classic southern dish, Chicken Bog, we decide it’s a must for our dinner on the deck. It’s an easy and delicious casserole of chicken, smoked sausage and rice that notoriously hits the spot every time.

Chicken Bog

Ingredients

• 1 (4- to 5-pound) whole chicken
• 2 ribs celery
• 1 yellow onion
• 3 cloves garlic
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 1 (14-ounce) package smoked sausage
• 4 cups long-grain rice
• salt & pepper

Instructions

• If included, remove and discard the chicken innards. Add the chicken and the neck (if included) to a large stockpot.
• Wash and coarsely chop the celery. Peel and quarter the onion. Peel and smash the garlic with the side of a knife. Add the celery, onion, and garlic to the pot. Add enough water to just cover the chicken. Add 2 teaspoons of salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper then stir. Simmer the chicken for 40 to 60 minutes or until cooked through, being cautious not to boil. Boiling the chicken will result in dry, tough meat.
• Once cooked, remove the chicken to cool. Then remove and shred the meat, discard skin, bones, and neck. Set meat aside.
• Strain the broth from the pot through a fine mesh strainer and set aside.
• In a large Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid, add the butter and melt. Slice the sausage in 1/3-inch slices and add it to the butter. Cook over medium-low heat to just brown the sausage. Add 8 cups of the reserved broth to the pot and bring to a rolling boil. Add more salt and pepper to taste. Add the rice and stir well. Add the shredded chicken. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes, stirring once or twice, or until the rice is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed. Add additional broth if necessary. Serve immediately.

After dinner, we sit on the side deck for another beautiful showing of the South Carolina sunset.  The sky is streaked with gorgeous pink and purple hues as the sun sinks low on the horizon. 

Day Four: A taste of history

I wake up famished, and I know exactly what I want for brunch: BisQit! The restaurant’s online menu lists all-day breakfast and biscuit sandwiches with a twist. Fortunately, it’s only a 5-minute drive, because my mouth is already watering by the time we pull up. As usual, I’m torn between the Waccamaw—with fried chicken, bacon, cheddar and gravy—or banana and granola pancakes. After ordering the biscuit, I respect my choice! 

Bellies full, we wandered in and out of the myriad businesses in the Hammock Shops Village, including the Original Hammock Shop, where Pawleys Island rope hammocks are still woven by hand. (We even watched a demonstration in the Weavers Shop!) I remember how much my mother simply loved this cluster of unique boutiques, and it’s easy to see why: there are so many great finds.

We venture 15 minutes south to historic Hobcaw Barony for an afternoon of history and fun. The story of Belle Baruch and her family — and their ties to FDR and Winston Churchill — have always fascinated me. Hobcaw Barony’s 16,000 acres encompass a rich diversity of every common ecosystem found on the South Carolina coast, and it includes more than 70 cultural sites, all providing a time capsule for educators, both professional and, like us, amateurs!

It was a beautiful, leisurely day that helped revive my tired mind. To top it off, Daniel is insisting it’s his turn to “cook”—so in true form, we polish off the leftovers for a late dinner. Both meals are just as good reheated.

Day 5: Parting is such sweet sorrow

I’m feeling melancholy as we check out of our vacation rental, but I’m grateful for the time we had. Daniel and I both needed this break from our daily routine. This place was so special as a child, but now, as an adult, Litchfield Beach continues to be my favorite beach. I’m looking forward to coming back with Claire and Steven for our family trip. I can’t wait to show them the beach that I fell in love with when I was their age.

Thank you, Litchfield. You haven’t changed one bit.